A compact city perched on the shores of the Mediterranean, Tunis exudes a sense of excitement and urgency that belies its size. Locals rush between narrows streets, unfazed by the cacophonous blare of car horns, and the smell of earthy leather and fresh fish mingle in the Medina. Even the few spots of refuge within the city’s walls tend to contain pockets of commotion, with sellers frantically touting fresh popcorn and candy apples in Tunis’ Park Belvedere. While you may initially feel overwhelmed, it will not be long before you are captivated by all the mayhem. The infectious energy of Tunis will propel you forward as you traverse Roman ruins, busy markets and museums filled to the brim with ancient artefacts. Here are the best things to see and do in Tunis.
Start at Carthage
Dating back to the 9th century BCE, Carthage was originally populated by Phoenician settlers from the city of Tyre, in present-day Lebanon. As you look out across the Mediterranean Sea, it is easy to imagine the legendary Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca leading his fleets of soldiers and war elephants towards the Alps to invade Italy. Despite the general’s initial successes, Carthage was eventually defeated by Rome, leading to its destruction in 146 BCE and the erection of the looming Roman monuments that still stand today. Among the ruins are several noteworthy sites, including The Tophet, an ancient cemetery where urns containing the cremated remains of infants were buried alongside votive offerings. The Antonine Baths and Roman Amphitheatre of Carthage, which once played host to gladiatorial contests and other public spectacles, are also worth the visit.
Shop in the Medina
The Medina in Tunis, now more than 1,000 years old, has lost little of its historical importance. Each day, visitors pour out of its peephole entrances and, once within its clutches, you ‘ll be swept along by the crowds, jostled between stalls, and enticed into lenghty conversations with local tradesmen. Give yourself up to its charm, and you’ll be thankful for that friendly nudge in the right direction or that in-depth explanation of the ceramics on display. Whole days can be spent traipsing these cobbled streets, with each specific section requiring hours of attention. Whatever you do, make sure to visit the Souk de Chechias, where the makers of Tunisia’s traditional red felt caps have had their workshops for centuries, and Souq El Attarine (the Perfume Makers’ Souq). If you are in need of some respite, Ed-Dar is a peaceful museum located within the Medina offering historical artefacts and woven rugs for sale.
Catch a show at Theatre Municipal
The historical Theatre Municipal of Tunis was constructed under French colonial rule in the late 19th century, with its neo-classical design nodding to the architectural styles of the era. Visitors should take some time to admire the art nouveau façade of the building, complete with intricate carvings of Apollo surrounded by the muses of Poetry and Drama, before venturing inside. Here, plush red seats and soaring balconies await. There's a range of performances, including opera, ballet and traditional Tunisian theatrical plays. Make sure to book tickets online before you go, as they can sell out months in advance.
Stroll down Avenue Habib Bourguiba
During French colonial rule, Avenue Habib Bourguiba – then known as Avenue de la Marine –became the rallying point for protests and demonstrations. After independence was gained in 1956, the street was named after Tunisia’s first president, and has remained a focal point for political activity in the city. Most recently, Avenue Habib Bourguiba played host to mass demonstrations during the Tunisian revolution that overthrew the regime of Zine El Abidine Ben Ali in 2011. As a result, even first-time visitors are likely to recognise the omnipresent clocktower and tree lined boulevard that have come to define the avenue. Be sure to visit some of the other cultural and religious sites along the avenues 1.2 km long stretch. The 19th century Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul, the art nouveau style Municipal Theatre, and the ornately carved Bab el Bar (Gate of the Sea) are all equally impressive.
Pick up produce at Marche Central
Located close to the Medina, Le Marche Central is a sells fresh produce, meats and spices. Visitors approaching the covered central hall are likely to find themselves distracted by the stalls that hug the facade of the building. Hanging dates swing from their eaves and fresh eggs teeter on shelves, as vendors cook mountains of traditional Tunisian tajine – an omelette-style dish made with spices, chicken and parsley. Savour these delicate aromas – as with most respectable produce markets, the smell of fresh fish can be slightly overpowering once you're inside. The strong willed visitor will march on, hunting down ripe fruits, fragrant harissa, and, of course, a catch of the day to serve up for supper.
Marvel at Zitouna Mosque
Located in the heart of the Medina, the Zitouna Mosque was originally built in the 8th century during the reign of the Aghlabid dynasty. Over time, the mosque underwent several expansions, each lending a particular architectural style to the site. Whilst visitors cannot enter the mosque, they can still observe the Moorish, Ottoman and Andalusian architectural influences from afar. For a birds-eye view of the main courtyard and shimmering minaret of Zitouna, head up to the rooftop at Cafe Panorama in the Medina.
Scrub up in a hammam
Public bathhouses, initially introduced by the Romans and developed under Ottoman rule, are still an integral part of Tunisian life. In the ornate marble hot rooms of the hammam, visitors are asked to lay on heated stone to acclimate to the temperature. Afterwards, they are scrubbed vigorously using a coarse mitt known as a kessa, which exfoliates the skin and removes dead cells. Fully relaxed, visitors can unwind further on low-seated sofas and plush cushions in a dedicated relaxation room. At Dar el Jeld, visitors can experience an authentic Tunisian hammam experience within the heart of the historical Medina. Alternatively, in the peaceful district of Sidi Bou Said, La Villa Bleue has a small hammam that uses Tunisian-sourced mineral clays.
Visit the Bardo Museum
Built in the Moorish-Andalusia style, the architecture and design of the Bardo Museum manage to compete with the incredible artefacts within – the inviting archway entrances, gilded wooden ceilings and delicate overhead balconies are as eye-catching as the vibrant Roman mosaics on display. Notable works including the Virgil Mosaic, depicting the poet writing his famous work, The Aeneid. Dedicate at least half a day to your visit, as the museum is also home to the The Triumph of Neptune mosaic and a myriad other notable artefacts.
Picnic in Belvedere Park
Tunis is pretty hectic, even when you're away from the Medina. And it feels no different at the entrance to Belvedere Park, where children hurriedly dart between sellers touting buttery popcorn and syrup-coated nuts, while their parents keep their spot in the queue for the zoo. Be patient and head deeper into the ground’s expansive lawns, where lush greenery and towering trees block out the noise of the city. To experience it like a local, grab some pastries from the nearby De Carlo’s bakery first, then settle down for a picnic in one of the park’s many vantage points offering views over the city.
See the sites in Sidi Bou Said
Sidi Bou Said – a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its distinctive blue and white buildings – was once a humble seaside town on the outskirts of Tunis. Popular among 18th-century artists, intellectuals and musicians, the town gradually became known for its slower pace of life. Today, city dwellers from Tunis still seek shelter within Sidi Bou Said’s walls, enjoying the artsy cafes and rooftop bars that the town now boasts. Amble aimlessly through the town on foot, but make sure to make a stop at the Sidi Bou Said Lighthouse, which offers panoramic views of the sea and surrounding countryside. Au Bon Vieux Temps serves classic fresh fish dishes and A. Gorgi Gallery showcases contemporary works by Tunisian artists.
Hunt for secondhand bargains
Thrift shops and stalls stocked full of vintage goodies are a dime a dozen in Tunis. While the tables filled with a haphazard tangle of clothes might appear daunting, roll up your sleeves and join the locals in digging for hidden treasures. Start your hunt at the friperies along Avenue de La Liberte (especially Guerrida Shop and Guerrisol) or the flea market at El Hafsia.