In what is fast becoming known as the Rooney Mara effect, ethereal skin, oxblood-red lips, blunt bangs, and a return to deep, dark brown hair (read: no highlights) have emerged as some of the strongest beauty statements on the fall runways.
It all started in New York at Calvin Klein, where hairstylist Guido Palau sent models Patricia van der Vliet, Tati Cotliar, Kate Kondas, and Dempsey Stewart down the runway with abbreviated espresso-colored bangs that merged the clean lines of Bauhaus architecture with a dash of hard-edged chic, thanks to the shaved-back bobs that went with them and a near total absence of makeup on the face.
The fringe phenomenon continued in London at Antonio Berardi, where hairstylist Orlando Pita gave the designer’s entire troupe of models full, glossy bangs that fell sharply above the brows. Meanwhile, Christopher Kane’s models—nearly all deep brunettes—wore center-parted hair juxtaposed against pale, milk-white skin.
In Milan, red lips and gothically pretty skin turned up on the runways at Gucci and Bottega Veneta, courtesy of Pat McGrath—the same makeup artist who created Mara’s look for The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. At Versace, the connection seemed that much more literal. “Donatella wanted the girls to look supercool, supermodern,” said Palau, who responded with razor-sharp micro-fringe created from short extensions, hand-cut and clipped into the crown. To heighten their sex appeal, he left the rest of the hair loose and textured, while McGrath added a pitch-black, cool eye that brought to mind the fearless attitude of a modern-day Lisbeth Salander.
By the time **Consuelo Castiglioni’**s brigade of Marni girls took the runway in Milan this morning—with beveled, Sassoon-inspired bangs created by hairstylist Paul Hanlon—it was clear the trend was in full swing. “The clothes are very precise and much more basic than the Marni collections of the past few seasons,” Hanlon said of the simple color-blocked dresses that inspired his choice. “It gives the girls a character, an identity—and that’s true on and off the runway.”
Of the turn toward fringe, Palau says, “A graphic bang presents the face; it brings strength. And it can be many things—eighties, fifties, nineties, dominatrix, punk.” And while he insists that the Mara associations in his work this season are pure coincidence, he does admire her thoroughly unique personal style. “It’s the first time in quite a while that we’ve seen an actress on the red carpet with such an extreme cut and looking quite beautiful. Next to her, it can feel a bit like everyone else is just playing it safe.”