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Ravello, Italy: the perfect break
Ravello, the Amalfi coast's most peaceful and charming resort, has an air of restrained glamour, says Joanna Symons.
Why go ...
Because Ravello, set like an eagle's nest above the dizzying landscape of Italy's Amalfi coast, is the most peaceful and charming resort on the Neapolitan Riviera. Early summer is the best time to explore its largely traffic-free lanes or to wander among the terraces and pergolas of its elegant gardens, from where there are vertigo-inducing glimpses of the Mediterranean miles below.
Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy and Tennessee Williams all holidayed here, and the place still has an air of restrained glamour (though neighbouring Amalfi has more in the way of beach and nightlife).
The atmospheric grounds of the castle-like Villa Rufolo (said to have provided Wagner with inspiration for Klingsor's garden in Parsifal) is the setting for The Ravello Concert Society's annual season of chamber music concerts between April and October (www.ravelloarts.org). And there will be more music at the highly regarded Ravello Festival, which starts on July 8 (programme details have yet to be released).
Get there by
Air to Naples with British Airways (www.britishairways.com), easyJet (www.easyjet.com), Thomson (www.thomsonfly.com).
The drive from Naples to Ravello is daunting so it's worth booking a package which includes flights, accommodation and, crucially, a private transfer to your hotel. Ravello is small enough to explore on foot, and local taxis and buses will take you further afield.
Stay at ....
Hotel Caruso by Orient Express (0845 077 2222; www.hotelcaruso.com) – one of the great hotels of Europe, set in a former palace, with terraced gardens and an infinity pool that seems to spill into the Gulf of Sorrento miles below. There are matchless, cloud-level views of the churches, lemon groves and rocky coastline from its terraces, balconies, spa and gardens.
Rooms are large and traditionally furnished, and nearly all have sea views. A free minibus service runs to Amalfi and Positano several times a day, and, key to the welcoming atmosphere, staff are welcoming and attentive without a hint of snootiness. It's expensive, like everything else in Ravello, but it sets the standard for five-star hotels. Carrier (0161 491 7650; www.carrier.co.uk) has three-night packages, including return flights, private transfers and breakfast from £1,375 per person.
Next door to the Caruso, Palazzo Sasso (00 39 089 81 81 81; www.palazzosasso.com) has the same dizzying views and historic palace pedigree. Décor is white and modern, without being stark, bedrooms are more traditionally furnished, many have a sea view.
It lacks the Caruso's spacious grounds, but the terraced gardens are attractive, with pool, open-air gym, and spa with sauna and Turkish bath – and there are hot tubs on the sunny roof terrace. Service is efficient, with a helpful concierge service and guests have the use of the hotel's beach villa, served by a free private bus, which also takes guests to Amalfi. Carrier has three-night packages (as above) from £1,100 per person.
Hotel Parsifal (00 39 089 857144; www.hotelparsifal.com); this, too, has classic Ravello views, a small, well tended garden, simply furnished rooms – some with their own balcony – and a friendly atmosphere. Double rooms from 130 euros a night; 230 euros for two nights.
Spend the morning ...
Taking a trip along the coast. Boats leave regularly each day from the pier area on the Amalfi waterfront; try www.amalficoastcruise.com (45 euros per person for a half day). Guests at the Hotel Caruso get a complimentary trip from Amalfi to Positano and back.
Or book a session at Mamma Agata's cookery school (00 39 089 857 019; www.mammaagata.com). As a girl, Agata cooked in Ravello villas for Elizabeth Taylor and Humphrey Bogart; now she and her charismatic family teach classic Italian home cooking from their peaceful house overlooking the sea; a day class costs 200 euros per person, including tastings and lunch.
Have lunch at ...
If you aren't at Mamma Agata's, try Cumpa Cosimo (00 39 089 857156) in Via Roma, close to Ravello's main square; a traditional trattoria with no view, but a vivacious proprietor, a smattering of locals among the tourists, and reliably good pasta and secondi. Pricing is a bit vague (bills are not itemised) but expect to pay from about 20 euros a head.
Il Flauto di Pan restaurant at the Villa Cimbrone provides good food and sensational sea views from the garden tables (00 39 089 857459; www.villacimbrone.com). Many ingredients are grown organically in the villa's gardens; pasta dishes from 14 euros, main courses from 22 euros. Or try some of the local cakes at an Amalfi pastry shop; Dolceria dell'Antico Portico at Supportico Rua, 10, is one of the best.
Spend the afternoon ...
Following Ravello's quiet streets of coloured stucco houses, lemon groves and wrought iron gates to the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone (5 euros) to wander among the arbours and rose gardens, and pause for the heart stopping views of the Gulf of Sorrento from the Terrace of Infinity.
Or take one of the (steepish and stepped) footpaths down to the coast at the little town of Minori, or to busier, buzzier Amalfi (about an hour on foot). From Amalfi there are regular buses back to Ravello (2.50 euros). In the late afternoon visit Ravello's main square, where locals gather to chat, children play football and the great 12th century bronze doors of the Duomo are open wide to the slanting sun.
Dine out at ...
Lido Azzuro (00 39 089 871384) despite being on the Amalfi seafront, this is likely to have as many locals as tourists on its terrace built out over the sea. Beautifully cooked fish and seafood, and good, reasonably priced local wine. From 40 euros a head with wine.
For a treat, try Rossellinis at Palazzo Sasso (00 39 089 81 81 81 www.palazzosasso.com). Classic two-Michelin-star-style cooking from chef Pino Lavarra (formerly of the Manoir au Quat' Saisons) is served in the hotel's rather formal dining room. There are occasional misses, but generally dishes are exquisitely presented, flavours are intense, and waiters and the sommelier are knowledgeable and helpful. The "small" (though still substantial) tasting menu costs 95 euros without wine.
The Caruso Restaurant at the Hotel Caruso (as above) has assured old-school Italian cooking, served, when it's warm enough, on the large outdoor terrace. From July 1 the restaurant moves up to the softly-lit gardens with views of the whole coast laid out beneath. From 80 euros a head without wine.
Spend the next day ...
At Pompeii, about 17 miles from Ravello. Although several important houses are crumbling and currently closed, this Roman city, destroyed in AD79 by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius, is still a genuinely awe-inspiring sight. Its maze of streets, homes, villas – even a brothel – leave you with a vivid sense of daily life in the Roman world. Admission 11 euros, including a useful map.
More information ...
Italian Tourist Board (www.italiantouristboard.co.uk); Time Out: Naples and the Amalfi Coast (Time Out Guides, £12.99).
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