How Alexander McQueen changed fashion
Next week, the V&A will open its Alexander McQueen retrospective, Savage Beauty - a homage to one of the greatest designers of the 20th century. Already the museum has had to extend the show to 2 August after record-breaking advance sales.
He was known for his dark, menacing beauty, his catwalk spectaculars and exquisite tailoring - McQueen was a creative fireball, as well as a man who meticulously knew his craft, having learnt the art of tailoring on Savile Row. He sprinkled dark magic over his every collection.
Much is said about McQueen's fashion legacy. He changed the course of fashion and taught designers to be daring; to explore their imaginations and hold on to their integrity. He was fearless, extreme, and provocative and took showmanship to new heights.
His influence is everywhere, but we present a break-down of how McQueen reshaped fashion:
He was a pioneer of catwalk theatre
No one missed a McQueen show. When we talk of catwalk spectaculars now we think of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Burberry, but McQueen's shows took show theatre to a new level. There was Joan for A/W 1998 which ended with a model encircled with flames; Voss of S/S 2001 climaxed with a glass box shattering to reveal moths fluttering round the masked face of a woman; Untitled (previously called Golden Shower, but changed due to the obvious pornographic connotations) saw models walk through the rain; while the S/S 1999 show concluded with model Shalom Harlow rotating on a turntable being spray-painted by two robots. McQueen's shows were integral to his vision; sometimes he came up with the show concept before the collections themselves. He wanted the public to be moved by what they saw, whether they loved or hated it.
He redefined womenswear
McQueen loved women - he surrounded himself with strong female figures, including his beloved mother Joyce, as well as fashion editor and mentor Isabella Blow. He was accused of being a misogynist after his show entitled Highland Rape, which saw dishevelled models walk down the catwalk wearing ripped torn clothes. McQueen said it wasn't about the rape of women, but rather about his Scottish history. Blow once noted that he had changed the way women walked by moving the silhouette past the hips. While his outlook on women was sometimes brutal and he often played with the idea of women as prey and predators, they were never victims and their clothes were amour. "They don't look vulnerable," Professor Claire Wilcox, senior fashion curator, told the Guardian. "Actually, they look like they might punch you."
He created the bumster (therefore low slung trousers)
His bumster trousers were first introduced in 1996 - low-slung hipsters, narrowly skimming the pubis and displaying the top of your bum cheeks. Apparently, Kylie Minogue was the only person to buy a pair, but it sparked a ubiquitous trend for low-slung styles. "To me, that part of the body - not so much the buttocks but the bottom of the spine - that's the most erotic part of anyone's body, man or woman," he said in 2009. An original pair of bumsters were sold for an impressive £3,500 in December.
He made skull prints ubiquitous
Considering the tragic ending to McQueen's life (the designer hung himself on 10 February 2010), it feels somewhat morbid that one of his most commercially successful designs was his skull printed scarf - spawning many high street copies. It's an item that's been favoured by some of the world's biggest stars, including Kate Moss, Johnny Depp and Kim Kardashian.
He created a new form of beauty
Alexander McQueen was a Francis Bacon of fashion, turning the macabre and dark into an otherworldly beauty and art. He was romantic, passionate and intense and fascinated by death and nature. Animal symbolism often featured within his work, a nod to fragility and strength. One of his most famous creations came by way of the Armadillo shoe, which was shaped like a lobster claw and with a staggering 12-inch heel.
He taught the importance of craftsmanship
McQueen wasn't just an ideas man. He started his career at Savile Row at Anderson & Sheppard, where he made suits for Prince Charles. Legend has it that he used to sew expletive-filled messages into the linings, reading sweet things such as "I am a c**t." He also worked for Koji Tatsuno and Romeo Gigli, before enlisting at Central Saint Martins to do fashion design. He was a maestro of tailoring - those "bumsters" would not have worked had McQueen not have known his proportions.
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Click through the gallery below to see a preview of the exhibition:
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, in partnership with Swarovski, supported by American Express, with thanks to Mac cosmetics and made possible with the co-operation with Alexander McQueen, runs from 14 March until 2 August.