In Chamonix, tourism adapts to melting ice and snow

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The statue of Horace Bénédict de Saussure and Jacques Balmat, Chamonix Mont Blanc. Saussure and his guide (pointing the finger) were the first to climb the Mont Blanc in 1887. [nui7711 / Shutterstock]

This article is part of our special report Europe’s melting glaciers.

Perched in the French Alps at the foot of Mont Blanc, the iconic town of Chamonix confronts global warming by encouraging tourism professionals to adapt to changing conditions and promote local culture.

Chamonix is a pioneering place when it comes to mountain and alpine culture. Known worldwide for its glaciers and as the birthplace of mountaineering practised there since the 18th century, it was in this village that the first Winter Olympic Games were held in 1924.

Today, like all mountain resorts, “Cham,” as the locals say, must face the effects of climate change and its consequences. The Montenvers glacier, which is among the area’s main attractions, is melting at an unprecedented speed and experts say the skiable area will only be available for another 30 years at most.

Climate change is not new for mountaineers, though.

“When I started working in the mountains more than 25 years ago, we were already discussing these issues, long before they became media topics,” says Didier Tiberghien, co-director of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, a renowned institution that serves as a reference for high mountain professionals worldwide.

“Today, we must progress methodically and thoughtfully, anticipating the unexpected and adapting gradually,” he says.

Preserving the mountains and glaciers is a crucial challenge for Chamonix. All tourism stakeholders, most of whom are locals, are committed to reconciling mountain exploration with the preservation of its environment.

Adaptation and diversification

Major works have started on the Montenvers site, which currently attracts 350,000 visitors annually but needs transformation in light of the changing landscape caused by climate change.

The objective is to revitalise the iconic Montenvers-Mer de Glace site with a dual purpose: ensuring the attractiveness of this unique access point to the high mountains while raising awareness of its vulnerability to climate change.

The restoration of the architectural heritage, including the historical hotel and red train, along with the construction of a glaciorium and a cable car, are part of the plans.

The project aims to preserve and enhance the memory of this pioneering site in glacier exploration and high mountain access, while informing and educating visitors about the impact of climate change on the Mer de Glace glacier.

Apart from the Montenvers project, Chamonix is also seeking to diversify its tourism offerings to ensure their long-term viability. Indeed, the glaciers and high mountains are becoming increasingly risky due to the ice melt, prompting local authorities to promote other tourism-related activities.

Some attractions have existed for a long time, such as the Montenvers ice cave, which is carved out anew every year and offers visitors the opportunity to discover the glacier from the inside. More recently, the tourism office has focused on developing a museum circuit in the town and valley, allowing tourists to discover the local culture.

Dug for the first time in 1946 by Georges Claret, the ice cave is now maintained by his grandson, Benjamin Claret. Here, the team is completing preparations before the opening for the summer season of 2023. [Photo: Méline Laffabry]

Raising visitors’ awareness about the mountains is also a priority for Chamonix. With an increasing number of tourists visting in the summer, many people discover the region without being informed of the risks and the importance of respecting the environment.

The Compagnie des Guides, which has developed a selection of courses for beginners and experienced individuals, notes “a real enthusiasm for the mountains with a lot of requests for first experiences, especially since the pandemic”.

Océane Vibert, director of La Chamoniarde, a local association, makes the same observation. In their offices, where they welcome hikers and climbers free of charge before their departure, they also see an increasing number of people who often have no knowledge of the mountains and therefore no awareness of the risks.

At the same time, Chamonix wants to avoid unbridled mass tourism to expand.

Nicolas Durochat, director of the town’s tourism office, emphasises the importance of preserving residents’ quality of life: “If we invest in tourism, it is primarily to improve the well-being of our residents.” The municipality has therefore decided to restrict real estate development to preserve the local identity.

Chamonix’s tourism professionals have also demonstrated remarkable adaptability. A few years ago, when access to the Mottets bar from the slopes became difficult due to ice melt, the owner of the place, Cathy Simond, decided to supplement her income by installing four bubble-shaped tents with a see-through top where tourists can spend the night in the middle of the mountains.

She was immediately supported by the town hall in her project.  Although demand is strong enough to install new tents, Cathy has chosen to maintain the family aspect of her establishment.

“I want people to be able to spend the evening sitting around a table and have time to answer their questions about the mountains and the neighbouring glacier,” she explains.

The Mottets bar opened in the 1980s. Since 2016, visitors can spend the night there by sleeping in bubbles, like the one seen on this photo. [Photo: Méline Laffabry]

Tourism’s carbon footprint

In the face of climate change, local tourism stakeholders are also becoming increasingly aware of their carbon impact. The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is now authorised to calculate its carbon footprint and has implemented an action plan to reduce emissions, including a reduction in the guides’ activity zone.

Nicolas Durochat from the tourism office also explains that for the past nine years, the town of Chamonix has “stopped targeting clients from long-haul destinations to prioritise more local tourism.”

But the region’s touristic development is not without its contradictions. The Compagnie du Mont-Blanc, which operates all the ski lifts in Chamonix, needs to stay open throughout the year to support their employees.

And this includes attracting visitors from Asia during the off-peak season in spring and autumn, says Antoine Burnet, commercial director of the Compagnie du Mont-Blanc. Asked about the carbon impact of this activity, Burnet says Asian tourists don’t come to Europe just for Chamonix.

“They are on a discovery trip in Europe, so when looking at the carbon footprint, we need to consider all the places visited by clients.”

“We should know what proportion Chamonix represents, where clients often stay for only one or two days, compared to the entire trip. Is this proportion more or less significant than the locals who make multiple trips throughout the year?”

While promoting tourism and preserving the environment can seem like a complex balancing act, Chamonix is keen to explore alternative activities.

“It must be done progressively,” says Didier Tiberghien, co-director of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. “You don’t reach the Mont Blanc summit in two steps,” he continues. “We need to prepare, anticipate, have alternatives if what we planned doesn’t work. It requires careful planning.”

The historic hotel and red train of Montenvers hold significant importance for Chamonix. The hotel opened in 1880 and the iconic red train transported its first passengers to Montenvers in 1909. [Photo: Méline Laffabry]

[Edited by Frédéric Simon and Zoran Radosavljevic]

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