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Ice cream has done so much for me over the years. It’s been there for the celebrations, enhancing cakes and warm brownies, and it’s been there for the not-so-great times—who hasn’t drowned a sorrow here and there with a big bowl of the aptly named Rocky Road? After everything ice cream and I have been through, I think it’s time to give something back. And that something is the Fluff cone—the iconic, signature item of Gracie’s Ice Cream in Somerville, Massachusetts.
For those not in the know, Somerville is the birthplace of Fluff, and home to the Fluff Festival, an annual event that celebrates all things Fluff (think blindfolded Fluffernutter-making contests and a Fluff-themed burlesque performance by, yes, the Flufferettes). Gracie’s Ice Cream owner Aaron Cohen created the Fluff cone in 2014 as a special item for that year’s Fluff Festival, but “it was so well received that we made it a regular item,” he tells me.
So what exactly is a Fluff cone? “It’s just a crisp waffle cone that we dip into marshmallow Fluff and toast before filling the cone with ice cream,” Cohen explains. It’s as simple to make as it sounds, but this little flourish makes all the difference—it’s also quite a bit of performance art. “We make them to order, so if there’s a line and someone orders a Fluff cone, we can almost guarantee that six or seven more people are going to order them after.” It’s a literal smoke and light show as Cohen or one of his employees dips the top inch or so of the cone into a large plastic tub of Fluff, twists off the excess, and toasts the gooey marshmallow spread with a kitchen torch, but it’s the smell of toasted marshmallow that really drives customers wild.
Training employees to make Fluff cones is one of Cohen’s favorite parts of the job. “I always have to remind them that the Fluff will likely catch fire and that they have to shake the flame out. Customers don’t want you blowing on their cones, especially now.” Since 2020, Gracie’s Ice Cream no longer allows customers inside, opting for a pickup window, but for folks wanting to take a field trip and enjoy the spectacle of freshly made Fluff cones, Cohen’s second location, Earnest Drinks in Cambridge still has indoor seating—it’s worth it just for the toasted marshmallow aroma.
For those wanting to make Fluff cones at home, the method is simple. Grab a crisp waffle cone and dip it directly into a tub of Fluff to coat about one inch of the cone. Dip a second time for a nice thick layer and then gently twist the cone as you lift it out of the tub. Use a kitchen torch to toast the entire surface of the Fluff and then fill the cone with your favorite ice cream. “Don’t worry if the Fluff seals the top of the cone. Just push through it with the ice cream after you torch it,” Cohen explains.
You can even take your Fluff cones even further. “Strawberry Fluff is a little harder to find, but I bet it would be such a good flavor when it’s toasted,” Cohen says. He also makes what he calls Fluff Cone Crowns, which is a Fluff cone dipped in an additional topping after being toasted for added texture and flavor. “I’ve done bacon bits before—you want to use them sparingly—and Fruity Pebbles. Cocoa Pebbles would be good, or a dusting of cocoa powder for something a bit more refined.”
According to Cohen, any Fluff cone is a good Fluff cone, but there’s a trick to making them perfect. “The trick is to get a good amount on the inside of the cone so that some of the Fluff melts and pools in the bottom when you toast it,” he explains. This creates a barrier so that the end result is a final bite that’s slightly softened cone, gooey marshmallow, and melted ice cream.
“The perfect bite,” Cohen laughs.
