How to spend three days in Porto

Porto is having a moment. Cranes punctuate the skyline; restaurants spill out onto the street. Every week brings a new opening, whether it is a museum, a restaurant, a hotel, a bar or a concept store. Later this year, a Time Out Market will open near São Bento Railway Station, promising a plethora of outlets from Porto’s best chefs and an outdoor lounge with views over the city. So, we’ve spoken with the experts to determine how best to spend three days in Porto.

Day One

Morning

Start your day at the Bolhao Market. It’s a great place to have breakfast on the go. Order a bica (an espresso) and a pastel de nata custard tart, or if it is nearer lunch, try the little pies (empanadas) filled with the game or the sashimi that the fishmongers prepare. The neo-classical building has recently been restored, but the market here has been a culinary hub of Porto since 1914, famous for its popular produce, from percebes (goose barnacle) to tripe after which the Portoenses got their nick-name of ‘tripeiros’ or tripe eaters, due to their generosity in the 15th century when they sent all the good cuts of meat with the army to conquer distant lands, leaving only the innards for themselves.

If it is near noon, you could leave the market and stop just nearby for a drink at the Belle Époque Café Majestic, which opened in 1921 and was the haunt of writers and artists. You can see the Palladium Galleries Clock across the street from a table outside. On the hour, four little figurines come out as it chimes. Two are Portuguese poets; one is Prince Henry the Navigator of The Golden Age of Discovery fame, and the other is St. John the Baptist, Patron Saint of Porto. The latter’s feast day in June is a huge affair with fireworks and boat races.

If you want lunch now, try O Buraco for a real feeling of old Porto before the new culinary wave swept in and classic dishes like Tripe-Porto style or Veal pie.

Carry on to the Capela das Almas or Chapel of Souls, one of Porto's most beautiful tiled churches and probably its most photographed. The exterior is entirely clad in traditional blue and white tiles depicting the lives of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine of Alexandria. An even greater display of tiles, some 20,000 can be found at the early 20th century São Bento railway station.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon in the centre of town dipping into the shops. There is a famous bookshop, Lello, known for its Hogwarts-style staircase, a definite source of inspiration for one-time resident JK Rowling and a treasure trove of books. But don’t miss Vista Allegre, great for glass, porcelain and the pottery of Bordallo Pinheiro, whose cabbage leaf plates you may well know. For a more contemporary take, try Costa Nova; both muted and minimalist and very desirable. A Vida Portuguesa is a hugely successful store bringing back memories of vintage-style toothpaste and little ceramic swallows that promise to bring you back here. Claus Porto, Portugal’s most iconic soap and scent brand, has its flagship store in pedestrianised Rua das Flores. Try their new Alto Mar, inspired by the Atlantic and stock up on soaps in their trademark, vibrant, Art Nouveau wrapping paper.

Evening

Just across from there is Cozinha das Flores, where London-based Nuno Mendes delivers his contemporary twist on northern Portuguese food. Try his sensational pastel de nata, which here, rather than a custard tart, is filled with turnip and topped with caviar.

Night

Adjoining it is Porto’s hottest new Bar, its sibling Flor. It spills onto the street, making it a great people-watching place for a nightcap in this busy corner of town. The cocktails by talented mixologist Tatiana are delicious, from her Bloody Mary made with tomato water rather than juice to her humorous cocktail, Clichéd, where she imports elements of cod and coriander, stereotypical Portuguese flavours. Try Relish, too, for its umami complexity.

Day two

Morning

‘In Braga, they pray; in Coimbra, they study; in Porto, they work; and in Lisbon, they play,’ goes the old Portuguese saying. Nevertheless, there are churches in Porto and many well worth visiting. The most impressive is São Francisco, classified as a National Monument in 1910 and no longer used for worship. Its richly gilded interiors are the best example of Baroque decoration. Start there, as it is so central, and then head up to the Clérigos Church and Tower. Built by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century, its 75-metre-tall bell tower is a city landmark. Views over Porto and the Douro River are magnificent from the top. Lastly, explore Porto’s cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. It has been much altered over the years, but not the 13th-century rose window and the blue and white lining the cloisters.

After feeding your soul, concentrate on the body and head to Semea by Euskladuna, down by the river with a breezy terrace. This is one from the stable of Chef Vasco Coelho Santos whose Euskalduna Studio has a Michelin star. Here, it is all about sharing but drawing on Portuguese flavours. Try the chicken piri-piri or the codfish ‘Brás style’ for something authentic, and finish with the killer French toast with goat’s cheese ice cream.

Afternoon

The Serralves Museum is a glorious contemporary museum designed by local Pritzker-prize-winning architect Siza Viera. It sits in the Serralves, which also houses Casa de Serralves, considered Portugal's most notable Art Deco building. There is a treetop walk if you prefer to be outside rather than in and plenty of sculpture to see in the park, but save time for the excellent museum shop, which stocks a special edition of ceramics by Anna Westerlund.

Those looking to buy art should try the many galleries and shops in Miguel Bombarda Steet. The art gallery Galeria Presenca and Ó! Galeria are particularly recommended for its prints and illustrations.

Evening

Treat yourself to a dinner at Casa de Cha da Boa Nova. It is a drive out of Porto, and you need to go early to see the view before sunset, but what a fantastic place. The restaurant, which perches on the cliff edge with the sea pounding beneath it, was designed by acclaimed architect Siza Vieira. The food draws on the seafood on its doorstep, by Chef Rui Paula and currently holds two Michelin stars. That combination of impressive service, wine pairing and the views creates something seriously unforgettable.

Night

If you have eaten on the early side, you will have time to drop into The Royal Cocktail Club for a nightcap. It is a sophisticated venue where mixologists impress across the marble-topped bar. Downstairs is a cocktail lounge where you can settle in until the early hours.

Day three

Morning

Finally, it is time to cross the river and see what all the fuss is about. Dawdle first in the medieval district of Ribeira, where a jumble of colourful houses runs right up the riverside. It has become a centre for tourists with endless stalls, but it still maintains its character. You can either cross the river on the Ponte D. Luis 1 bridge (where you usually find young boys waiting to jump into the water for you from a great height, for a few euros), which has one of the biggest forged iron arches in the world or hop aboard the little boat that goes back and forth between Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto, which you will see advertised if you walk along the riverside. In Vila Nova de Gaia, the famous ‘nectar of the Gods’ is King, for this is where all the port lodges are. Take your pick from a wide choice (and it might be worth booking online beforehand), but Taylor’s is a good one for its fascinating historical museum (this port house was founded in 1692), its audio guide and its good range of tastings available afterwards.

Afternoon

Just above you stands the relatively new World of Wine. It encompasses a variety of museums and exhibitions, from ancient drinking vessels to an interactive chocolate museum where children can mould their own chocolate coins. Its main aim is to demystify the world of wine and encourage everyone to enjoy it, however scant their knowledge is. There is extensive history about the wine regions, grape characteristics, and tastings. The latest addition to the complex is The Atkinson Museum, currently housing a fascinating optical and kinetic art exhibition called The Dynamic Eye, on loan from London’s Tate Collection.

Evening

Mira, Mira is a new restaurant from Chef Ricardo Costa, who is at the helm of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant in The Yeatman, Porto’s grand dame. Here, he delivers a more casual – but no less impressive – version of his acclaimed cuisine. Try the cannelloni of spider crab with fermented cucumber and jalapeños or his venison with balsamic, raspberry and spring onion to see how perfectly he balances flavours.

Night

Finish the night at Base Porto, a cool, vibrant, open-air bar with cocktails and more right in the city's centre.