Yohji Yamamoto is one of the most celebrated and influential designers of our time. Most came to know the designer through his work with adidas under the sub-label Y-3, while deep fashion heads may be more familiar with Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme, his mainline menswear label, or other sub-labels such as Ground Y, S’yte, and so on. But for those who dig into the archives, you’ll be privy to Y’s, the Japanese designer’s first-ever brand for women — and its male counterpart, Y’s for Men, which debuted in 1979.

Now, Yamamoto has revealed the return of Y’s for Men. Arriving as part of its Fall/Winter 2023 collection that was shown this season at Paris Fashion Week FW23, Y’s for Men’s return marks the end of its pause that commenced in 2010.

What does it mean for Yohji fans? Those who search shops such as Aro Archive, FILES, or sites like Grailed high-and-low for some of his earliest work will now get the chance to obtain a new era of Y’s for Men, undoubtedly providing a subdued and welcoming take as opposed to the designer’s more avant-garde styles found within Pour Homme.

As seen in the runway imagery above, which the official brand account revealed in detail on Instagram, we find two Y’s for Men looks. First is a traditional suit jacket, cut with no over-exaggeration or unnecessary elements. Instead, the focus is on materials — a thick tweed check, trimmed with grey lining for a timeless finish. But, it’s paired with silky, floating pants doused in an array of muted colors, emulating the joy that frequently underpins the designer’s work, even if it is subtle.

Look two reverses this approach with a more playful jacket, coming with an elongated right side in black and a waist-level left side in wine red. The collars are doubled-up, peaked and sharp, breast pockets are stitched haphazardly but also in a traditional fashion with the use of stripes, and it all falls exquisitely on to flowing black pants.

Take a look at the Y’s for Men pieces above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more information as news unfolds.

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